The Secret Capital of Beer

June 8th

The ugly black clouds above us keep us from biking. The bike track peeps out in the forest along the river next to the road. Shame, shame! A short stop in Bad Berneck, the next village is Neuenmarkt. Here is the German Steam Engine Museum. Of course, it is Monday and all museums are closed. But we can catch a glimpse through the fence.

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Welcome in the secret capital of beer! A giant picture greets the visitors of Kulmbach.

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The sky is totally black by now and we do not envy the bikers. It is not far to the city from our campsite and we have umbrellas. Here the River Main is already a bit wider, hopefully, it doesn’t rain as much as 1673!

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The beer gardens are deserted and even the pigeons stay in their house.

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We manage to find a restaurant with Franconian beer and Franconian food like „Blaue Zipfel“, these are cooked sausages in a vinegar brew. I know it sounds disgusting… but it is delicious.

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Kulmbach has a beautiful town hall and I am sure many other nice places but the continuous rain makes us go back to our camper as fast as possible.

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For the evening, Rainer finds a brewery not far from the campsite just on the other side of the river – actually here it is still a creek. The road and the beer garden look deserted.

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But inside it is boiling! We just manage to get a seat. More and more people are coming, the blank scrubbed tables are occupied. The serving girls are very busy, but no one has to wait long for beer and food.

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The beer of the month is „kalt gehopftes Pils“. That goes perfect with the roast with wild mushrooms for Rainer and I go for a filled onion with beer sauce. All is very tasty!

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